Young at heart: Tiffany & Co teams up with Dover Street Market

Dover Street Market that brings a collection of forgotten jewellery
(Image credit: Tiffany & Co)

Tiffany & Co might most often be associated with Audrey Hepburn and its white ribboned, turquoise blue box, but some lesser-known aspects of its legacy include the fact that the house never discontinues any of its designs, and that its legendary shop windows were largely created by one man: Gene Moore.

These two facets seamlessly come together in Tiffany’s latest project: a kismet-tinged collaboration with Dover Street Market to bring a collection of forgotten jewellery and gift designs back into the spotlight. The 18-strong ‘Out of Retirement’ collection will be showcased exclusively at Dover Street Market’s New York, London and Tokyo locations, successively unveiled over the next week, in an array of specially designed displays inspired by the pioneering Moore.

Gene Moore was the visionary behind Tiffany & Co’s iconic Fifth Avenue window displays from 1955 to 1994. In those 39 years, his artistic approach manifested itself in the fantastical, miniature worlds that lived behind glass.

‘His aesthetic was very simple and had a witty and theatrical basis, which was striking back in the ‘50s when he started working for Tiffany,’ says Richard Moore, the company’s current vice-president of creative and visual merchandising, and simply shares a name with the older Moore. ’He was a pivotal figure in changing how windows appeared. Previously there would be a mannequin or a neck form with a beautiful necklace on it, but he really did away with all of that and brought in this sense of theatre and narrative, which was very fresh and new at the time. The industry over really responds to that now and it has become the norm. He was a really influential figure.’

For the New York installation which debuts this week, Richard and his team latched on to the idea of poseable figures – a recurring feature of Gene’s work. Arranged in classic New York City vignettes, with backdrops sculptured from thin black wire, the installation casts Gene’s iconic approach in a modern light. The London display, which will be revealed on Tuesday, hones in on Gene’s equally strong affection for cast hands, while Tokyo’s (which will be uncovered on 18 November) will place Tiffany’s pieces amongst Nymphenburg’s menagerie of porcelain animals, just as it was done back in the 1960s.

It helps that the quirky, and surprisingly current, ‘Out of Retirement’ collection lends itself easily to the surrealist installations. From the ‘$’  (1942) or 'Money' (1955) money clips; 1992’s Chinese Food Container pillbox or 2000’s sterling silver Party Horn, it’s hard to believe that these pieces weren’t especially designed for the Dover Street Market clientele. Swapping out Tiffany’s white ribbon for a jet black one is the collaboration’s equally inspired final flourish.

The collaboration will be displayed in a series of installations designed in the style of Tiffany’s legendary window dresser

Presented in Dover Street Market’s New York, London and Tokyo locations, the collaboration will be displayed in a series of installations designed in the style of Tiffany’s legendary window dresser, Gene Moore. Pictured: a scene from the London windows

(Image credit: courtesy of Tiffany & Co)

Nymphenburg’s porcelain animal figurines in Tokyo

Each installation focuses on an aspect of Moore's visual style: wooden figures in New York, cast hands in London and Nymphenburg's porcelain animal figurines in Tokyo, which Moore used in the 1960s

(Image credit: courtesy of Tiffany & Co)

Tiffany & Co teams up with Dover Street Market

The New York installation was unveilved this week.

(Image credit: Peter Murdock)

The display casts Gene’s iconic approach in a modern light

Arranged in various New York City vignettes, with backdrops sculptured from thin black wire, the display casts Gene’s iconic approach in a modern light.

(Image credit: Peter Murdock)

Previously there would be a mannequin or a neck form with a beautiful necklace on it

Richard Moore, the company’s current vice-president of creative and visual merchandising, says, ’[Gene Moore] was a pivotal figure in changing how windows appeared. Previously there would be a mannequin or a neck form with a beautiful necklace on it, but he really did away with all of that and brought in this sense of theatre and narrative.’

(Image credit: Peter Murdock)

A wood interlock bracelet and bicycle clip

The 'Out of Retirement' collection includes a sterling silver party horn (2000) and a fish flask, left, and a wood interlock bracelet (1975) and bicycle clip (1971), right.

(Image credit: Peter Murdock)

All the installations will eschew Tiffany & Co’s classic logo for a rendition

A rendering of the London installation. All the installations will eschew Tiffany & Co's classic logo for a rendition of Charles Lewis Tiffany's signature in neon

(Image credit: courtesy of Tiffany & Co)

Tiffany & Co teams up with Dover Street Market

A rendering of the Tokyo installation, which will be unveiled next week

(Image credit: courtesy of Tiffany & Co)

INFORMATION
Website

The limited edition ’Out of Retirement’ collection will be exclusively available at the three Dover Street Market locations from this month until Janury 2016

All images courtesy of Tiffany & Co

Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.