W* Bespoke: Hublot, Bar and Bischoff team up
Traditional Swiss lacework and a swimwear supermodel are the unexpected combination that announces progressive watchmaker Hublot's big push into distinctive timepieces for women

This year Hublot celebrates its 35th birthday - which makes it a positive babe in the tradition of haute horlogerie. But in that relatively short time the Swiss watchmaker has led a new wave of less conservative, more artful design - indeed, the company was the first to combine gold and natural rubber in a watch, provoking much tut-tutting among stalwarts who felt noble materials should stick together.
Then when the award-winning contemporary chronograph that is the Big Bang came along in 2005, Hublot found itself with the kind of icon most watch companies take many decades to attain. Three years later and Hublot was acquired by the LVMH luxury goods group - a statement of belief in its potential if ever there was one. That said, the almost ten-fold increase in turnover that Hublot had brought home over just four years probably spoke for itself.
Thankfully, Hublot’s upscale radicalism has not been dampened in more recent years either. There have been records - a 50 day power reserve, for example; referees - Hublot has come to be recognised as the first luxury brand to build close ties with the world of football; research - the company’s progressive use of exotic materials the likes of scratch-resistant gold, tantalum, cermet and, best of all, Hublonium (a blend of aluminium and magnesium); and even runners - its celebrated relationship with the world’s fastest man, Usain Bolt.
But nor has such welcome into the Hublot fold ceased either. Now, after bringing a roster of heavyweight sportsmen into its family - the likes of Kobe Bryant, Dwyane and Pele - Hublot has signed its first woman as brand ambassador, and a supermodel at that. Bar Refaeli - who made her first splash in the 2007 ‘Sports Illustrated’ swimsuit issue, returning two years later to take the cover - has been the face of Escada, Chanel and Moet & Chandon, among other huge brands, and now becomes the first female face of Hublot, fronting a new campaign this year as the company pushes into the women’s watch market.
Naturally enough, as it does so, women might do well not to expect dainty, pretty, blandly ‘feminine’ pieces from Hublot. Certainly its latest collection, Big Bang Broderie, is a case in point. Hublot has teamed up not just with Bar, but with Bischoff, the esteemed Swiss lacemaker. Between them Hublot and Bischoff have created an exclusive lace pattern recreated in carbon fibre to grace the dials of the various Broderie automatic models. Of course, this is not the kind of lace you’d expect to see on table-top or in a wedding down - rather, it takes on a skull pattern, studded with 11 diamonds. At 35 years young, few would expect anything too predictable from Hublot by now.
Supermodel Bar Refaeli has become Hublot's latest ambassador, and the face to front its first women's watch ad campaign
Original sketches for the various designs considered for the embroidery used on Hublot's new Broderie series
Inside the Big Bang Broderie - a mechanical HUB1110 self-winding movement with 63 components and 21 jewels
Assembling the Big Bang Broderie's mechanical movement takes patience, time and steady hands to ensure maximum operating efficiency
Setting the hands's lightweight, sensitive components requires careful co-ordination with the date movement too
Each Hublot watch undergoes one final check by the company's master watchmaker to ensure total quality control
Still, sterile, exact - the workshop where Hublot's grand complications are assembled leaves little room for lapses in concentration
Each 'blank' - the basis for each movement - undergoes extensive decorative hand-work to provide each with an exquisite style
The human eye and hand is not always capable of working to necessary tolerances - so then a micro-engineer uses a machine to cut tiny parts using a live metal wire
Hublot watch components are produced in-house, right down to the brass screws, wheels and pins, cut from the raw material
Components are pre-assembled by advanced systems, allowing the watchmakers' efforts to be best spent on finessing the finished article
Testing procedures include ensuring an Hublot watch case is both water and air tight
The milling micro-engineer makes the likes of main plates and bridges
Quality control is an essential part of the Hublot watchmaking process - each part is tested
Decorated components are both enhanced and protected by undergoing the chemical application of colour
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
Unlike the gloriously grotesque imagery in his films, Yorgos Lanthimos’ photographs are quietly beautiful
An exhibition at Webber Gallery in Los Angeles presents Yorgos Lanthimos’ photography
By Katie Tobin Published
-
Remembering architect David M Childs (1941-2025) and his New York skyline legacy
David M Childs, a former chairman of architectural powerhouse SOM, has passed away. We celebrate his professional achievements
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
At the Institute of Indology, a humble new addition makes all the difference
Continuing the late Balkrishna V Doshi’s legacy, Sangath studio design a new take on the toilet in Gujarat
By Ellie Stathaki Published