Steel has long been the favoured material for making practical watches. Strong, light, economical, hypo-allergenic and non-magnetic, it was perfect for pilots, engineers and the military, but not a luxury material, not something to create dreams from. That is, until the 1970s, when watch designer and goldsmith Gérald Genta had a different vision. His early 1970s modernist steel watch designs, including the ‘Royal Oak’ for Audemars Piguet and the ‘Nautilus’ for Patek Philippe, integrated case and bracelet in a single fluid loop. His use of handbrushed and polished metalwork, typical jeweller techniques, creating new kinds of luxury sports watches.
‘Nautilus’ ladies’ automatic watch in steel and diamonds, by Patek Philippe. Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
It wasn’t long before women’s watches were just as vigorously proportioned – the new Patek Philippe ladies’ automatic ‘Nautilus’, which eschews the smaller delicacy of earlier models with its most generous dimensions yet, is a case in point. A dark grey opaline dial, when framed by a diamond bezel, becomes almost dainty. The grey steel hue of Bulgari’s ‘Octo Roma’ is made richer with rose-gold accents. Chopard’s ‘Alpine Eagle’, meanwhile, although crafted with heavy steel links, boasts a sleek, narrow silhouette, bestowing steel with the elegantly precious credentials it so richly deserves.
‘Octo Roma’ watch in stainless steel and rose gold, by Bulgari. Fashion: Aylin Bayhan
As originally featured in the May 2020 issue of Wallpaper* (W*254), available to download free here
INFORMATION
-
A celestial New York exhibition showcases Roman and Williams’ mastery of lightingLauded design studio Roman and Williams is exhibiting 100 variations of its lighting ‘family tree’ inside a historic Tribeca space
-
‘He immortalised the birth of the supermodel’: inside Dior’s career-spanning retrospective of photographer Peter LindberghOlivier Flaviano, curator and head of Paris’ La Galerie Dior, talks us through a new Peter Lindbergh retrospective, which celebrates the seminal German photographer’s longtime relationship with the French house
-
Take a bite: Laila Gohar and The Luxury Collection’s ‘Cakes & Candles’ are a sweet treat for the sensesLaila Gohar’s six cake-inspired candles draw on The Luxury Collection’s hotels around the world – where guests can enjoy matching edible confections
-
Take a look at the big winners of the watch world OscarsThe Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is the Oscars for the watch world – get all the news on the 2024 event here
-
Why are watch designers so drawn to brutalism?Watch brands looking for ways to break the conservative mould look to brutalist architecture and 1970s design codes
-
Classic watch designs to last a lifetimeWhen considering which watch design to invest in, disregard trends and consider classic pieces characterised by timeless design
-
Browns and Mad Paris rethink Audemars Piguet Royal OakWatch customisation specialist Mad Paris has developed two new versions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for Browns
-
Time for an eco-friendly watch?Some of the more eco-friendly watch materials being embraced by sustainably-minded watchmakers include recycled steel, bioceramic and cork
-
Boundary-breaking Chanel watch is tweaked for a new generationThe Boy.Friend Skeleton appeals to both men and women with its distinctive octagonal silhouette
-
On the button: Chanel's perfectly hidden timepieceThe ‘Mademoiselle Privé Bouton’ watch is everything but off the cuff
-
Sound bite: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s contemporary art celebrates acoustic watchesJaeger-LeCoultre and Swiss artist Zimoun have collaborated on an artwork to commemorate the 150 year anniversary of its first minute repeater
