The classic chain gets a rethink in the hands of Annoushka, which imbues utilitarian golden links with a precious twist in the new collection, ‘Knuckle’.
The brand’s founder Annoushka Ducas worked with a family-run workshop in Arezzo, Italy, on the designs, which come in three link sizes: classic, bold and heavy. For the jewellery designer, the project has been a labour of love. ‘Designing a timeless and wearable (for every day) chain is the holy grail for any jeweller,’ says Ducas.
‘It's the same as a proprietary movement in the watch world or the signature buckle on a handbag. It's difficult to come up with an innovative idea that works in terms of beauty and functionality. A chain design, to the naked eye, appears to be so simple, and yet it is the complexity and subtlety of the movement which adds to the overall splendour and timelessness. The beauty is in the way in which the chain moves and manipulates – the timelessness is in the style of the chain, and the various ways in which it can be worn and adorned.’
The results are fluid and flexible, designed to be worn at the whim of the wearer. ‘The way in which the knuckle joint moves is truly organic and original and could only be created by hand,’ says Ducas. ‘The knuckle detail also allows for other (knuckle chains) of various weights to be added to the chain via a purpose-made double-ended clasp, which has been designed in the shape of a horseshoe, for luck! The crafting process includes eight distinctive stages from start to finish; [each chain is] entirely made by hand and assessed by the human eye.’
While normally designing in 18ct gold, here Annoushka has worked in 14ct gold, mindful both of the current cost of gold and of the chance to appeal to a younger audience. ‘14ct gold is still a hard and resistant metal, so it will continue to stand the test of time, unlike perhaps gold-plated materials that will tarnish and discolour,’ she adds. ‘I'm passionate about jewellery that can be passed down through generations and has a story to tell, for me, that is what timeless jewellery is really all about.’
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