Last year saw big and small independent watch brands alike dialling back on mid-century saturated colours, returning to an era where black goes with everything in a nod back to the timelessness that made watches like the Omega Seamaster, Tudor Black Bay and Tissot PRX such success stories in the first place. This year, brands are eschewing vintage inspirations for the modernity monochrome can bring. Here are some of our favourites.
Tudor Black Bay 41 'Monochrome'
The Tudor Black Bay 41 re-entered the ring swinging last year, shrinking from 41 to 39mm, then hitting 37mm with the Black Bay 54. By switching from 4K colour to a suave Leica black and white, the brand has captured the essence of the original bestselling design, marking a welcome return to modernity.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M
While sponsoring the Paris Olympics last year, Omega released new watches in bold colours and precious metals. But in between the heavy hitters, the brand echoed the new pared-back trend, including in a black and white pair of Seamaster Diver 300M references. But for us the standout choice was three Aqua Terras with black lacquer dials, a sharp contrast to the other bright colours in the same range.
A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1
While A.Lange & Söhne has become more adventurous with their dial art, there is a lot to be said for Teutonic monochrome, proven with aplomb in the 130th Anniversary model of the Lange 1. Unlike Omega’s deep lacquerwork dial, the Lange 1 has quietly stepped onto the stone dial trend train with a luscious black onyx dial. Sufficed to say, the mere 150 pieces of the platinum-cased and achingly perfect 36.8mm Little Lange 1 was easily one of the best black dial watches of last year and solidified the brand’s standing with collectors.
Longines Ultra-Chron
Longines surprised us at Christmas with a re-engineered Ultra-Chron. Originally revived in 2022, the new Ultra-Chron is the new monochrome modernity in carbon fibre. It might look contemporary, but it is a carbon fibre-cased remake of the 1968 original, complete with an all-black aesthetic that sends a strong signal to the community. Is the big retro wave finally abating?
Tissot PRX
In the same vein as the Longines Ultra-Chron, Tissot has had a star run with its PRX in its various sleek, Seventies guises. It is easily its bestselling range and has been so for a few years now, waking up the enthusiasm for the accessible brand in the watch community at large. With its broad, flat-linked integrated bracelet, it is a superb entry ticket to the world of integrated bracelet sports watches. Now, Tissot has twisted its retro recipe to include a new version in 40mm forged carbon fibre. With a new textured black rubber bracelet, it looks remarkably futuristic, and polished details are a great contrast to the matte carbon fibre dial.
Echo/Neutra Rivanera
Small brands are often more likely to pivot faster to a new aesthetic, and one example is the Italian brand Echo/Neutra, with its traditional-sounding Rivanera. On paper, the specs read like dress watch perfection, with a 27mmx40mm rectangular case and a small seconds-at-six layout. This sounds similar to a few grail pieces by Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre but is subversively modern. The case is in sandblasted titanium with a reserved matte dial, and the entire watch weighs a mere 30 grams, including the leather strap. A rectangular revolution might be afoot, and Echo/Neutra is on point.
Aera M-1
Just like the classic rectangular dress watch is a poster child for our love of vintage style, so is the venerable field watch, boasting icons like the Rolex Explorer. However, through a clean slate approach and a minimalist ethos, British brand Aera has thoroughly re-engineered and updated the genre with its recent release, the M-1 Field. Under the ethos of ‘tools for life,’ the brand offers a contemporary and crisp take on the rugged tool watch in an ergonomic, zero-compromise 904L steel case with bespoke fitted straps.
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