Cartier’s major new exhibition opens at the V&A and it’s a gem

Cartier is celebrating its rich, culturally illustrious history with a major new retrospective at the V&A in London. Set to open to the public this weekend (12 April 2025), the exhibition is curated by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, and will encompass more than 350 objects, from jewels to gemstones, watches to clocks and unseen drawings, as well as pieces lent by King Charles and other private collectors.

‘It’s been a long-time dream on our side to see a Cartier exhibition organised by the V&A,’ says Pierre Rainero, Cartier image, style and heritage director. ‘The discussions with the museum started, I think, ten or 12 years ago, creating an interest among the team at the V&A to dedicate an entire exhibition to Cartier. What is important for us is not only to see that the Cartier creations are a subject of interest, but also to see how a new team of curators and a new scientific approach adopt a new angle, showing the public a new vision on the work of Cartier. This exhibition includes entire new chapters not treated in previous exhibitions.’

British architect and artist Asif Khan (behind London's new Canada Water bridge) heads the exhibition design, creating a Cartier scenography that makes an immersive backdrop for the storytelling at its heart. The exhibition is divided into three distinctive sections: Cartier’s creativity and inspiration, the Cartier workshops and the shaping of a now-iconic image.

‘It was quite complex for the team of curators on the V&A side to create the narrative, because they had many aspects they wanted to focus on – the history of the creation, the history itself, the dimension of Cartier as a company, the analysis of Cartier all through those different periods of time,’ Rainero says. ‘Also, because the exhibition takes place in London, [there is] the idea to give a focus on the specific British history of Cartier, so, the construction of a narrative was very interesting and I think they did achieve a very consistent approach. The journey of the visitors will be from one discovery to another discovery, and, at the end, it will leave a marvellous impression about not only the exhibition but Cartier itself.’

Spectacular highlights on show include the Scroll Tiara, commissioned in 1902 and worn by Elizabeth II at her coronation (and also by Rihanna on the cover of W Magazine in 2016), Grace Kelly’s engagement ring from 1956, and a brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, featuring the rare 23.6 carat pink Williamson diamond.

The jewellery and watches pinpoint Cartier’s story, which goes from a decorative arts history to a look into the technical innovations of the craftsmanship, and a spotlighting of the actors, musicians and royalty who have loved the maison over the years.

‘We are always happy to see the public discovering the works, because, in fact, that’s what Cartier is about,’ says Rainero. ‘We are proposing real objects and they are enjoyable, desirable and subjects of curiosity and, I hope, also admiration. I think an exhibition like this is a way, especially given the approach of the V&A team, of showing the human adventure on the side of Cartier as a company; how Cartier was organised, who were the personalities at the origin of every decision taken and why and how.

‘Also there is the interaction with clients, which is a dedicated section of the exhibition, and how clients also “made” Cartier in many, many different ways. The fame of Cartier, the reputation of Cartier is linked to the importance of our clients and the way they adopted and shared their Cartier creations with the rest of the public. I think this is an important dimension, which is visible and people could perceive the human dimension of Cartier in many ways.’

Cartier is at the V&A, London, from 12 April – 16 November 2025, vam.ac.uk