If measured by the length of the queue of journalists, the Cartier booth stood out when the doors of the Palexpo centre in Geneva opened for Watches and Wonders 2025. Booking a meeting with the brand, now also possible for private clients, is trickier than threading a proverbial needle, but it's worth it. Cartier has experienced an inexorable rise in popularity, and this week, it revamps four of its ranges in a move that only underscores the brand’s upward trajectory.
New Cartier watches
Cartier Privé Tank A Guichet
We are surely not the only ones to have been wishing for a rebirth of Cartier’s 1928 icon, and here it is. Within the top-tier Privé portfolio, The Tank A Guichets is reissued in three models, encapsulating the minimalist art deco chic of the original design, available in yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum.
And surprisingly, a fourth model sees Cartier offer a complete redesign, charmingly asymmetric in platinum. Its skewed numerals are rendered in a fresh tone of red seen through elegant windows in the brushed precious metal front of the watch. This is a bold move for the brand, with the red text echoing the use of a red cabochon for the platinum Tank Louis Cartier models.
Tank Louis Cartier
The Tank continues to grow in stature despite its svelte demeanour, and the precious metal Tank Louis Cartier embodies the brand’s evolution. At Watches and Wonders 2025, Cartier presents two new versions of the slim dress watch, available in rose or yellow gold.
What’s new is the contemporary choice of semi-matte finishes for the timeless alligator straps, with both watches measuring 38.1 x 27.8mm and featuring a slim profile of under 9mm. Both come with a light-catching silver-white sunray-pattern flinqué dial, blue sword hands and a prominent cabochon-set crown.
Panthère de Cartier
Remaining a staple of many curated wardrobes, the various guises of the Panthère de Cartier make it a versatile timepiece. This year, Cartier ups the sparkle factor with four semi-pavé versions in yellow and rose gold, all of which are in danger of being eclipsed by an artisanal, multi-coloured version. With a 36.5mm rose gold case, the new reference is crafted by the Maison des Métiers d'Art, featuring a dynamic pattern that frames a pavé and enamel dial. The bracelet is adorned with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds and 86 spessartites, unfolding its links with diagonal patterns of sunny yellows and reds.
Panthère de Cartier Bangle
In the two versions of the Panthère de Cartier Bangle, a polished, physical dynamic brings the panther to life, as it appears to run with feline grace, chasing around the wrist to face the small face of a quartz watch. It is a sweepingly modern manifestation of Cartier’s jewellery tradition.
The feline bangle is available in two versions: polished yellow gold or a gem-packed white gold version. The yellow gold version has green tsavorites for the panther’s eyes, while pentagonal black lacquer spots match a gloss black dial surrounded by 23 brilliant-cut diamonds. The white gold panther is immaculately clad with diamonds, spilling over onto the smooth watch end, which it appears to be chasing, totalling 1,103 with a combined weight of 11.9 carats.
Tressage
The sculptural quality of the Tressage series initially appears as if two gem-set bangles are enveloping a minimalist Cartier Tank, yet it emerges as a singular, cohesive design. As we have seen in the Panthère bangle, there is an understanding between Cartier’s watch designers and artisanal jewellers. This expertise in precious metal comes across as particularly strong in the three gem-set versions, as well as in the purity of the yellow gold version, featuring soft tresses that frame a black lacquer dial and a smooth black calfskin strap.
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