An impressive private jewellery collection goes on public display in Dubai, organised by Van Cleef & Arpels’ L’École, School of Jewelry Arts

Late French collector and antique art dealer Yves Gastou amassed an impressive ring collection, now the subject of an exhibition, ‘Men’s Rings, Yves Gastou Collection’

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A 17th-century Venetian doge ring, part of Yves Gastou’s collection, currently on show at L’École Middle East in Dubai
(Image credit: Courtesy of L’École, School of Jewelry Arts)

In partnership with L’École, School of Jewelry Arts

For the late French collector and antique art dealer, Yves Gastou, men’s rings held a particular power. Rife with symbolism, Gastou appreciated both their artistry and their aestheticism, amassing an impressive collection of more than 1,000 rings in his lifetime. Now, these pieces are the subject of an exhibition, ‘Men’s Rings, Yves Gastou Collection’, which marks the first time that the collection has visited the Middle East.

Following successful previous visits to Paris, Tokyo, Hong Kong and Shanghai, this fifth show features new additions, with more than 700 exceptional rings on display. Divided into five themes (history, gothic, Christian mystique, vanitas and eclecticism), the rings criss-cross eras and mediums, from precious to mass-produced, and encompass an eclectic selection, from ancient Egyptian rings and 17th-century Venetian doge pieces to memento mori skull rings and 1970s American biker rings.

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A group of rings from the collection

(Image credit: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts)

For more than 40 years, Gastou frequented auction houses, flea markets, workshops and studios in a quest to develop and expand his collection, which was first unveiled to the public in 2018 at Paris’ L’École, School of Jewelry Arts. The school opened in 2012, with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels, and it has continued to build on its mission to introduce everyone from beginners to experts to all aspects of jewellery culture, offering courses in the history of jewellery, the world of gemstones, and the savoir-faire of jewellery-making techniques.

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The Angels ring by Chrome Hearts

(Image credit: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts)

Exhibitions, too, are a chance for the school to reach a wider audience, with this new exhibition being one of four currently on show around the world, alongside ‘Shakudo: From Samurai to Jewelry’ at L’École Asia Pacific in Hong Kong; ‘Paris, City of Pearls’ at L’École France Europe in Paris; and ‘Designing Jewels’ at L’École China in Shanghai. The Yves Gastou exhibition opened in early November in Dubai, its timely arrival coinciding with Editions, the city’s first limited-edition art and design fair. Coinciding with Dubai Design Week in the city’s Design District, the events signal an exciting new direction for jewellery, art and craft in the Middle East.

'Men’s Rings, Yves Gastou Collection’ is on show until 26 April 2025 at L’École Middle East, Dubai

lecolevancleefarpels.com

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An English mourning ring

(Image credit: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts)

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An ecclesiastical ring, circa 1900s

(Image credit: L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts)

Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.