Watches and Wonders 2025 has kicked off, and Wallpaper* is on the ground in the watchmaking capital of Geneva to bring you all the latest announcements from the world of horology.
On day one, all eyes are on Rolex: the brand has released five new models, plus sophisticated revisions of three existing models. Followers of Rolex watches will be most excited by news of the new Land-Dweller, detailed below.
Here is everything you need to know about the new Rolex watches revealed at Watches and Wonders.
The Land-Dweller
Introducing the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, a watch characterised by bold aesthetics and industry-leading technology. Notable features include the ‘Flat Jubilee’ metal bracelet, with its flat links and polished centre links (which are raised above the outer links) and technical satin finish. The attachment system ensures a fluid integration with the Oyster case, which has been developed with modifications to the waterproofness system and a restyled fluted bezel.
The Land-Dweller boasts a new movement that beats at a frequency of 5 Hz, calibre 7135. This self-winding mechanical movement is thinner than most Rolex movements, featuring a revolutionary escapement called the Dynapulse. Calibre 7135, which has a power reserve of approximately 66 hours and features Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration and a yellow gold oscillating weight, allows the Land-Dweller to measure time to one-tenth of a second.
The watch comes in three versions: one 36mm model and two 40mm models. The former is made of 18ct Everose gold with a white dial set with ten baguette-cut diamond hour markers and a bezel with 44 trapeze-cut diamonds. The first of the larger models is cast in white Rolesor with a fluted bezel and a honeycomb motif dial. The second is presented in 950 platinum with a fluted bezel and a blue dial, also featuring the honeycomb motif – a painstaking detail created with traditional craftsmanship.
Further details include the six and nine numerals being open at their centre, which takes cues from previous Explorer and Air-King models. The Land-Dweller’s index hour markers are luminescent and the hands are rectilinear, and the seconds hand has a counterweight shaped like honeycomb cells.
The GMT-Master II
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, 18 ct white gold
Rolex has unveiled an iteration of the iconic Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, bringing in a never-before-seen dial crafted from high-tech ceramic in vivid green Cerachrom. This eye-catching feature is presented on an 18ct white gold version of the model, distinguishable for its left-side winding crown and a date aperture positioned at 9 o’clock.
The GMT-Master II was originally conceived as a navigational tool for those crossing time zones; it’s a true traveller’s watch. This model has the ability to display two time zones simultaneously, with the date function synchronised with the local time. The design includes a rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert, which is presented in a two-toned colour scheme signifying day and night.
The watch is powered by the calibre 3285, a self-winding mechanical movement originally introduced in 2018 which offers exceptional precision and a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The GMT-Master II is fitted with an Oyster bracelet in 18ct white gold, secured with an Oysterlock clasp and equipped with an extension link for adjustments.
The 40mm Oyster case is robust, created from a solid block of 18ct white gold and guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100m.
The Oyster Perpetual
Oyster Perpetual 28, Oystersteel
Rolex has expanded its much-loved Oyster Perpetual range with watches in an array of muted pastel shades: a soft lavender, a warm beige and a fresh green, each with a matt finish.
These new dial colours correlate with different model sizes: the Oyster Perpetual 28 has the lavender dial, while the larger Oyster Perpetual 36 is cast in sandy beige. The largest of the releases, the Oyster Perpetual 41, features the pistachio dial. This model has also been the subject of a subtle redesign: the Oyster case has been refined and the Oysterclasp is slimmer.
These new faces are turning heads, but behind them lie the technological intricacies that Rolex is known for. The Oyster Perpetual 28 is powered by calibre 2232, while the Oyster Perpetual 36 and 41 are driven by calibre 3230. Both movements provide hours, minutes, and seconds with precision, reliability and enhanced resistance. The power reserve for calibre 2232 is approximately 55 hours, while calibre 3230 is around 70 hours.
Oyster Perpetual watches are descendants of Rolex’s original 1926 Oyster, the world's first waterproof watch. They represent chronometer wristwatches in their purest form, with their chronometric precision, waterproof Oyster cases and self-winding function.
As with the GMT-Master II, the Oyster Perpetual’s hermetically-sealed Oyster case – available in 28mm, 36mm, and 41mm diameters – is guaranteed waterproof to 100m, and all models are secured with an Oysterlock clasp and an extension link.
The 1908
Perpetual 1908, 18 ct yellow gold
Designed for the Perpetual 1908 watch, Rolex’s new seven-piece link Settimo bracelet is crafted from 18ct yellow gold. Inspired by vintage jewelry bracelets, it feels super-light on the wrist and has a fully polished appearance, while a concealed Crownclasp makes for a seamless finish.
The Perpetual 1908 is part of the 2023 Perpetual collection, which aimed to put a modern spin on traditional horological style. The new model features a bold white dial, Breguet-style hour hands and a minute hand shaped like a two-edged sword, as well as Arabic numerals at the three, nine, and 12 o'clock positions. The 39 mm case has a transparent back, allowing the intricate movement to be viewed, and is waterproof to 50m.
The watch is powered by the calibre 7140, a self-winding, high-precision and resistant mechanical movement that offers hours, minutes and small seconds functions and boasts a power reserve of around 66 hours. It’s decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève and features a cut-out yellow gold oscillating weight.
The Datejust
Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31, 18 ct yellow gold
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 immediately packs a punch with its vibrant red ombré dial, which graduates to a dark edge, creating a ‘chiaroscuro’ appearance. Ombré dials were only reintroduced by Rolex in 2019, so this ‘fire’ effect is a first for the Datejust 31; here, it is enhanced with ten diamond-set hour markers.
Presented in 18ct yellow gold and featuring a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, this luxurious-feeling watch comes with a President bracelet, a three-piece link bracelet and a concealed Crownclasp.
The Datejust is powered by calibre 2236, a movement first released by Rolex in 2014 and that has been used in the Datejust 31 since 2018. This self-winding mechanical movement boasts precision and reliability, offering a 55-hour power reserve and displaying the date, hours, minutes and seconds.
The 31mm Oyster case is waterproof to 100m and features a sealed case back, a Twinlock winding crown, and a scratchproof sapphire crystal with a Cyclops lens for the date.
New dials: Cosmograph Daytona, GMT-Master II and Sky-Dweller
Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, 18ct yellow gold
Three of Rolex’s iconic models – the Cosmograph Daytona, GMT-Master II and Sky-Dweller – are presented with new dial configurations. The Cosmograph Daytona now boasts a turquoise blue lacquer dial with black counters; the GMT-Master II is presented with a distinctive tiger iron dial – a natural stone with a blend of tiger's eye, red jasper and hematite; and the Sky-Dweller in 18 ct yellow gold features a green sunray-finish dial.
Each watch features sophisticated ceramic components, with the bezels offering both scratch resistance and colour intensity. The Cosmograph Daytona has a black Cerachrom bezel; the GMT-Master II boasts a two-tone brown and black Cerachrom insert; and the Sky-Dweller’s fluted bezel – a hallmark of classic Rolexes – is made from 18ct yellow gold.
Each features an Oyster case made from solid blocks of 18ct gold that are waterproof to 100m. All three are powered by self-winding mechanical movements with power reserves ranging from 70 to 72 hours – calibre 4131 in the case of the Daytona; calibre 3285 for the GMT-Master II; and calibre 9002 for the Sky-Dweller. In terms of bracelet options (each with a unique clasp and extension systems), it’s Oysterflex for the Daytona, Oyster for the GMT-Master II, and Jubilee for the Sky-Dweller
Follow along with more news from the Wallpaper* team at Watches & Wonders
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