It’s a good time for the restrained design of this steel Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 watch

Vacheron Constantin’s style and heritage director Christian Selmoni has waited for three years to unveil the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in steel. Elegantly restrained, this new 37mm version is slimly ergonomic, with a height of only 7.95mm.

This modern on-wrist comfort is remarkable given its 48-year-old design, but in order to grasp the significance of the 222, we need to go back in time. Even Gerald Genta was not universally known when the young designer Jorg Hysek came up with his notable 1977 debut for Vacheron Constantin, the watch's name coming from the brand’s triple-digit anniversary that year. The 222 is the slim forefather of the Overseas family of sports watches, and just like this strong reissue, the original watch was lithe and elegant but notable for its cog-like scalloped bezel.

The case, a similar tonneau shape to rivals like the Royal Oak, Laureato and the Nautilus, is distinguished by distinct details and an engineered quality that is juxtaposed against its dress-like size and feel. And if we had to pick out a particular favourite detail, it would be the quirky touch of an embedded Maltese cross in the case corner. A single touch of gold carefully in the lower right lug, it is an unnecessary flourish that sets Jorg Hysek’s oeuvre apart.

Compared to its octagonal-infused rivals, the 222 bracelet was unique and still feels modern nearly five decades later. The flush hexagonal links are razor-sharp and present an entirely different vibe from h-links and Genta designs, making us question what took Vacheron so long. The 222’s pitch-perfect size and look that's true to its origins must feel rewarding to both Vacheron’s Christian Selmoni and Hysek, a man who has now pivoted to art.

A feeling of perfection runs throughout the design, right down to its subdued matte blue dial. Brands often succumb to tweaking historical details, and there is no denying the eye-catching twinkle of white gold on a gloss-lacquered or sunray-brushed dial on a viral Instapost. But the period-perfect serenity of the matte mid-blue dial is quieter, reminding us more of a soft Loro Piana fabric than lacquered metal. Compared to the rich tonality of the gold version released in 2022, the new Historiques 222 in steel is a more graphic, crisp proposition. Some might lament that the framed date window is not colour-matched, but it remains true to its inspiration from a time when functionality dictated its legibility.

Limited only by production, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 will be available exclusively to Vacheron Constantin boutiques. With the original 222 also coming in a raffish version combining gold and steel, as well as a rectangular option, we will keep our eyes on Christian Selmoni for tell-tale signs of a possible next chapter.

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