Take a look at the big winners of the watch world Oscars

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is the Oscars for the watch world – get all the news on the 2024 event here

watch
Winner of the Aiguille d’Or, IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Eternal Calendar
(Image credit: IWC)

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) took place in Geneva last night (13 November) with its annual celebration of horological excellence.

This year's categories were dominated by independent watchmakers. But with entries showcasing extraordinary levels of handcrafted complexity, we didn't mind in the slightest. The event was a testament to the artistry and ingenuity thriving in independent watchmaking.

Enjoy the wrist art of our favourite category winners that exemplify the pinnacle of contemporary horology.

Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2024: see the winners


Men's Complication - DB Kind Of Grande Complication

Image of GPHG prize winning watch

(Image credit: GPHG)

De Bethune's DB Kind of Grande Complication is a horological masterpiece that distills 22 years of innovation into a single, exceptional timepiece. This reversible, double-sided watch showcases eight complications—including a perpetual calendar, ultra-light tourbillon, spherical moon-phase indication, and jumping seconds—all integrated within a polished platinum case. On the contemporary side, the watch mesmerises with a 36,000 vph tourbillon and a jumping seconds mechanism, contrasted by the classical side featuring a perpetual calendar and a three-dimensional moon-phase set against the maison's signature starry sky in blued titanium. With 751 meticulously assembled components, it's not just a watch but a true composition that captures De Bethune's spirit of technical mastery and aesthetic excellence.

Ladies' Complication - Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d'Été

Image of GPHG prize winning watch

(Image credit: GPHG)

Nature has always been a timeless muse, and Van Cleef & Arpels captures its essence with the Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch—a celebration of a fresh summer morning. This exquisite piece brings blooming corollas to life within the maison's enchanted garden. White and yellow gold butterflies, crafted in plique-à-jour enamel, not only tell time but also flutter away thanks to an on-demand animation that breathes life into the flowers and stems. The corollas, rendered in vallonné enamel with azure hues and spessartite garnet pistils, are set against a matte mother-of-pearl dial that merges foreground and background into a poetic scene of lush greenery. With champlevé enamel leaves and tsavorite garnet-adorned blades of grass, supported by sculptural miniature painting, it's a bucolic landscape where time ticks by in harmony with nature's eternal cycle.

Tourbillon - Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Image of GPHG prize winning watch

(Image credit: GPHG)

Thirty-five years after its founding, Daniel Roth returns with the Tourbillon Souscription—a homage to the original 1988 design embodying the brand's enduring values. Crafted by artisans at La Fabrique du Temps, the timepiece upholds the mantra 'La Montre Objet d’Art.' Housed in an exclusive yellow gold double-ellipse case just 9.2mm thick, it features subtly reshaped hand-soldered lugs for enhanced ergonomics. The solid gold dial with Clous de Paris guilloché pays refined tribute to the brand's heritage, produced in Kari Voutilainen's workshop. Beneath beats the in-house calibre DR001, ensuring artisanal excellence continues under master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini.

Petite Aiguille - KUDOKE 3 Salmon

Image of GPHG prize winning watch

(Image credit: GPHG)

Stefan Kudoke's KUDOKE 3 continues the HANDwerk collection's signature of sophisticated simplicity with an unconventional hour display. Minutes are indicated by a blued steel hand, but hours are shown via a triple-armed hand of varying lengths moving between two dials below the upper dial. As one arm completes an hour scale, the next begins, with hours 2, 6, and 10 displayed twice on different scales. The salmon upper dial complements the silver-plated lower dial's wave shape. Four screws at 10, 20, 40, and 50 serve as minute markers, and diamond edges enhance the aesthetics. The infinity symbol, a HANDwerk motif, is woven into the design. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case with an onion crown, the KUDOKE 3 showcases the hand-wound KALIBER 1 movement through its sapphire case back.

Jewellery - Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch

Image of GPHG prize winning watch

(Image credit: GPHG)

Chopard's latest marvel from its Red Carpet Collection is a jewellery-watch embodying the magic of 'a secret about a secret.' Hidden within a seashell, this unique piece merges watchmaking expertise with jewellery artistry. Featuring a natural pearl surrounded by sapphires in pastel hues, it captivates with technicolor mystery. Over 1,000 hours of meticulous work entwine ethical 18-carat gold with titanium—a technical feat. Chopard's commitment to sustainability shines through with 100% ethical gold from transparent, traceable sources.

All the winners at The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2024

“Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: IWC Schaffhausen, Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Audacity Prize: Berneron, Mirage Sienna

Eco-innovation Prize: Chopard, L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

Chronometry Prize: Bernhard Lederer, 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer

“Horological Revelation” Prize: Rémy Cools, Tourbillon Atelier

Iconic Watch Prize: Piaget, Piaget Polo 79

Tourbillon Watch Prize: Daniel Roth, Tourbillon Souscription

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Laurent Ferrier, Classic Moon Silver

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Bovet 1822, Récital 28 Prowess 1

Chronograph Watch Prize: Massena Lab, Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab

Sports Watch Prize: Ming, 37.09 Bluefin

Men’s Complication Watch Prize: De Bethune, DB Kind Of Grande Complication

Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen, KV20i Reversed

Time Only Watch Prize: H. Moser & Cie, Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard, Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Brise d'Été

Ladies’ Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Jour Nuit

“Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize: Kudoke, 3 Salmon

Challenge Watch Prize: Otsuka Lotec, No.6

Special Jury Prize: Jean-Pierre Hagmann

Smilian Cibic is an Italian-American freelance digital content writer and multidisciplinary artist based in between London and northern Italy. He coordinated the  Wallpaper* Class of '24 exhibition during the Milan Design Week in the Triennale museum and is also an audio-visual artist and musician in the Italian project Delicatoni.