The rise and rise of odd-shaped watches

In an embrace of the refreshingly quirky looks of modernity and retro, watch brands are being seduced by new and avant-garde watch shapes. From mirage-like references to a 1950s disco, here are the new dial silhouettes to look out for.

Berneron Mirage

Looking at images of the swoopy world of Berneron can be disconcerting. As if inspired by Dalí, the debut watch of young watchmaker Sylvain Berneron is an enigmatic creation offering more than meets the eye. The dial is imbued with a mirage-like vibe, hence the model’s name. Despite the first impressions, the design has its base in the odd but optimised shape of a thin 2.3mm manufacture movement designed on a solid gold base plate by Berneron, housed in an elegant white gold case.

Berneron

Furlan Marri Disco

With a dial oozing a late 1940s complex charm, but with a cheeky touch of lume, Furlan Marri nails it with their take on the 1950s watch shape known as the Disco Volante. Offering a new take on dress-watch pizzazz, it hides small lugs from view, tucked into an organic, circular case. When offered on a Milanese mesh bracelet, it commands a big presence, surprising from a small 38mm case.

Furlan Marri

Toledano & Chan B/1 TimeForArt

In this piece, unique for the TimeForArt auction this December in New York, the brutalist charm of the B/1 is rendered in solid meteorite as old as Earth itself, lending it the air of an ancient artefact left on our planet by an alien civilisation. The striated criss-cross patterns of the meteorite dial match the case for dramatic structural beauty, fitted to a tonal ostrich leg strap.

Toledano & Chan

Anoma A1

The London-based brand Matteo Violet-Vianello takes its inspiration from the soft shapes of the 1950s, going viral this year with the A1. watch. Making a triangular-shaped watch feel natural on the wrist says a lot about Violet-Vianello’s design skills, and the vibrant two-tone dial makes the A1 a stand-out piece. It is a triangular and colourful sign of today’s emerging love of odd-shaped beauty.

Anoma Watches

Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse

The original and the best, the Golden Ellipse is the result of 15 years of development. Composed of over 300 links and 363 parts for the 18ct rose gold bracelet, it trounces anything on the market for sleek comfort, exquisitely juxtaposing an ebony black dial.

Patek Philippe