Ten watch trends to take you into the year ahead

The watch trends we’re buying, from the minimal to the retro-futurist, the colourful, and the jewelled

Futuristic watch, with green rectangular face, metal grille, and red strap
The Hautlence Retrovision ’47 watch, with green rectangular face, metal grille, and red strap
(Image credit: Courtesy of the brand)

The past 12 months were a great year for watches, with a slew of both independent and bigger brands taking risks across design and manufacture. As a result, new watch releases pushed back against the traditional, encompassing everything from the avant-garde to the rethought classic, the maximalist to the minimalist. Here are some of our favourite trends of the year to take you into 2025.

Minimalism

blue watch

Ressence watch

(Image credit: Ressence)

When it comes to watchmaking, some brands out-dazzle each other with gems and otherworldly designs when all we want is wrist zen. Minimalist watches with a pared-down essence of style are a strong trend. And to paraphrase Mies van der Rohe, God is in the minimal details.

READ: Minimalist watches to invest in now

Odd-shaped watch cases

watches

Berneron watch

(Image credit: Courtesy of brand)

In an embrace of the refreshingly quirky looks of modernity and retro, watch brands are being seduced by new and avant-garde watch shapes. From mirage-like references to a 1950s disco, here are the new dial silhouettes to look out for.

READ: The rise of odd-shaped watches

Jewelled watches

Patek Philippe AQUANAUT LUCE jewelled watch on blue rubber strap

Patek Philippe

(Image credit: Patek Philippe)

When watch houses reinvent their iconic designs in jewelled form, the results can be sublime, joyous, and downright outrageous. We single out five classic watch designs that have been given a precious new spin.

READ: Jewelled watches: five iconic designs get a glittering makeover

Bold colours

colourful watches

Left, IWC and right, Richard Mille

(Image credit: Karolina Burlikowska)

Colourful watches showcasing a rainbow of bright hues are among the past year's most eye-catching new releases, with shades from sorbet to psychedelic illustrated in bright straps and unexpected materials. From the blue tones of IWC and Audemars Piguet, to the pretty-in-pink Hublot, wine-coloured Montblanc, via the bright Richard Mille , Tag Heuer and Patek Philippe and more understated Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre – discover the exquisite new watches.

READ: Striking watches look on the bright side this season with an injection of colour

Skeletonised

Skeletonised watches: Gerald Charles Squelette

Gerard Charles

(Image credit: Courtesy of Gerald Charles)

The hand-assembled cogs and gears in watchmaking offer a mechanical poetry when polished to perfection, and are close to a satellite link when it comes to accuracy. What better way to appreciate this living wrist machine than through the art of skeletonisation, which makes the movement come to life without a dial?

READ: Skeletonised watches are making a dazzling return

Brutalism

Brutalist B1 watch by Toledano & Chan

Toledano & Chan

(Image credit: Toledano & Chan)

Watch design is necessarily conservative – apart from the obvious restrictions of form and function, there are brand codes and commercial realities in play. So, when a new idea does break out of the less constrained independent sector, commercial brands go all in (as with the last decade’s obsession with all things Gerald Genta).

READ: Why are watch designers so drawn to brutalism?

Gold

Tudor watch on mesh background, one of our pick of gold watches

Tudor

(Image credit: Courtesy of brand)

Gold watches were a key trend at Watches and Wonders 2024, and the return of weighty glimmer resonated with us. Here are our some of our favourites, ranging from divers’ watches to Cartier chic, platinum to rose gold.

READ: All that glitters: five gold watches

Dark colours

dark watches

Left, Audemars Piguet and right, Chanel

(Image credit: Rowan Corr)

A host of new dark watches are embracing inky black hues. High-profile watch brands turning to the dark side include Bulgari, with its gleaming Serpenti Seduttori, which offsets a monochromatic palette with diamond-speckled rose gold; and Tag Heuer, whose use of retro shading and darker tones lend elegance across the board.

READ: Dark watches show it’s time to embrace an inky palette

Futurism

Futuristic watch with visible workings and blue strap

De Bethune

(Image credit: Courtesy of the brand)

At Watches and Wonders 2024, alongside classic designs from a multitude of major and independent watch brands, there is a leaning towards the thoroughly modern. Occasionally wildly outré wristwatches that don’t look like mid-1960s talismans are back with a vengeance – and we’re here for it.

READ: Futurism is back at Watches and Wonders 2024

Small watches

watch

Chopard

(Image credit: Courtesy of brand)

This selection of small watches – all between 35mm and 37.3mm, and by brands spanning from Chopard to Christopher Ward – are mighty fine in the style stakes.

READ: These small watches are mini in size and big on style

Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.